If you’ve ever glanced at your bathroom shelf and wondered, Does my skin really need all of this? you’re in good company. With new launches, trending ingredients, and endless tutorials, skincare can quickly shift from exciting to overwhelming.
Dermatologists often return to a simple yet powerful tool to bring clarity back to the routine: the Skin Health and Beauty Pyramid. Originally developed by experts including Dr. Zoe Diana Draelos, the pyramid lays out a helpful hierarchy of ingredients (from daily essentials to optional boosters) so you can focus on what matters.
“The pyramid helps people understand what’s next,” shares Berta Ochoa, ISDINCEUTICS Brand Manager. “You don’t have to do everything at once. After you’ve got the foundation down, you can level up.”
Below, we’ll walk through how the skincare pyramid works, plus how to use it to create a routine that feels balanced, purposeful, and supportive of long-term skin health.
Table of Contents
What is the skincare pyramid?
Think of the skincare pyramid as a map for building your routine with intention. It answers one of the most common questions: What should my skincare routine look like?
The pyramid is made up of three levels, starting at the bottom:
- Protection (your daily essentials)
- Transformation (your renewal and visible results step)
- Optimization (your advanced but optional boosters)
And running through the entire structure is a constant: hydration and barrier support, the common thread that helps everything function smoothly.
This simple setup can help to build a skincare routine that meets you where you’re at, while keeping long-term goals in mind.
Always on: Hydration & barrier support
Hydration isn’t a single step. Your skin needs moisture and barrier support morning and night, no matter which level of the pyramid you’re focusing on.
That’s because your skin’s natural barrier helps it stay comfortable while combating dryness. What’s more? Optimal moisture levels can boost elasticity and help skin tolerate more powerful ingredients.
Overall, when your barrier feels balanced, the rest of your routine feels smoother and more effective. Meet the star ingredient that can help get you there:
Hyaluronic acid
This water-attracting humectant comes in multiple molecular weights, sometimes even inside the same serum.
- High molecular weight forms hydrate the surface for an instant fresh feel.
- Low molecular weight forms reach deeper layers for sustained comfort.
With hydration in place, your skin is ready for whatever’s next.
Level 1: Protection
You’ve heard it before: never skip sunscreen. Dermatologists consistently name daily SPF as the most important part of any routine to keep skin healthy over time.
“It’s tempting to put the cart before the horse (i.e., trying retinal before finding a sunscreen you love). Instead, get the basics down first: healthy, protected skin is always the best starting point,” says Ochoa.
But you need to protect your skin from more than just those UV rays. Every day, your skin encounters pollution, shifting temperatures, and other environmental stressors—also referred to as the exposome. These stressors can lead to oxidative damage and the visible signs of aging.
That’s why sun protection is always better when paired with antioxidant protection—whether inside your sunscreen or an overnight recovery serum.
Key antioxidants
- Mediterranean algae extract: This lesser-known ingredient contains two powerful antioxidants that help support the skin’s natural defense system.
- Vitamin C: This classic antioxidant helps defend against environmental stressors and supports a brighter-looking tone.
- Melatonin: Featured in nighttime formulas to help the skin address oxidative stress accumulated during the day.
Protection sets the tone for everything that follows. Without it, the rest of your routine can’t perform at its full potential.
Level 2: Transformation
Once your foundation is strong, you can add ingredients that help refine texture, support renewal, and tackle the visible signs of aging head on. It’s tempting to only focus your efforts here, but remember, they perform best on protected, hydrated skin.
Retinoids
Retinoids encourage the skin’s natural renewal rhythm, which gradually slows with age. Over time, they help support smoother texture and a more refined appearance.
Retinal is a vitamin A derivative known for its efficiency. Think of it as retinol’s faster-acting cousin for targeting wrinkles and fine lines.
Hydroxy acids
These chemical exfoliants help lift away surface buildup that can make the skin look dull or congested.
- AHAs (like glycolic acid): Water-soluble and known for more intensive exfoliation.
- BHAs (like salicylic acid): Oil-soluble and helpful for visible pores and excess oil.
- PHAs: Larger, slower-penetrating molecules ideal for more delicate or easily-irritated skin.
“People love the transformation level because that’s where they really start to see visible changes,” notes Ochoa. “But those changes come more easily when the foundation is already strong.”
Level 3: Optimization
At the top of the pyramid are ingredients for those wondering, What else can I do for my skin? These aren’t essential for everyone, but they can help refine and elevate an already well-established routine.
Peptides
Peptides are short chains of amino acids that act as messengers for the skin.
- Signal peptides support natural protein production.
- Neurotransmitter peptides help soften the look of expression lines.
- Carrier peptides play a role in comfort and repair.
Repairsomes
In this category, we vary from the traditional pyramid a bit, focusing on Repairsomes rather than growth factors or stem cells. This family of ingredients is designed to help repair accumulated sun damage. They use specialized extracts and supportive compounds to clean up the errors written into your skin’s story by UV exposure.
- DNA Repairsomes®: Also known as photolyase, derived from plankton. Studies show that photolyase helps correct sun-induced damage.
- Night Repairsomes®: A complex of three potent ingredients (Micrococcus lysate, diosmin, and niacinamide) that help calm the skin, reduce the visible signs of photoaging, and support healthy overnight renewal.
“I think of this level as the extra flourish—the finishing touch,” adds Ochoa. “Not necessary for everyone, but perfect for when you’re ready to take your routine a step further.”
Putting the pyramid into practice
With all three levels in mind, the Skin Health and Beauty Pyramid offers a gentle, intuitive way to build (or elevate) your routine.
Here’s the easy flow to remember: start with protection, add transformation ingredients when your skin feels ready, and finally, focus on optimization. Meanwhile, hydration should stay constant.
Most importantly, the pyramid encourages a steady, needs-based approach to skincare: uncomplicated, intentional, and designed for long-term skin health. It’s not about doing more—it’s about choosing thoughtfully, listening to your skin, and enjoying the journey.
Reference:
“The Skin Health and Beauty Pyramid: A Clinically Based Guide to Selecting Topical Skincare Products.” Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (JDDonline).
Behind the blog:
Article written and reviewed by:
Amy is a content strategist who turned a part-time obsession with skincare into a full-time passion. Her experience as a creative storyteller includes a range of lifestyle and technology topics across Washington D.C. and Barcelona. What's in her travel bag? Eye contour cream and sunscreen, always.
